Author(s): Thomas von Nordheim
The trade secrets of couture tailoring are revealed—an invaluable guide for professionals and enthusiasts
Traditional tailoring has not changed for many centuries, however, the techniques are now known only by a few practicing in the best couture ateliers and bespoke tailor's workrooms. Nothing feels quite so luxurious as custom-made clothes, but the tailoring skills they require are often thought to be shrouded in mystery, and the clothes therefore only accessible to the rich and famous. This practical book brings vintage couture tailoring within everyone's reach. With step-by-step photographs and professional tips throughout, it shows how a lady's jacket is made and thereby introduces a range of fundamental tailoring techniques. These can be used for garments for either gender, as well as other sewing projects. The book discusses molding fabric to shape with the iron, employing loose interfacings, hollow shoulder construction, pad stitching canvas, interlining and weighting hems, making tailored and bound buttonholes, and more forgotten techniques.
Thomas von Nordheim learnt traditional tailoring during an apprenticeship in an old-style German couture salon. In the early 1990s, his love of fashion and all things English brought him to London. For seven years he cut and tailored for an illustrious clientele of aristocrats, politicians and members of international society at the last surviving great London couture house, Lachasse. When the house sadly closed, Thomas established his own successful business offering tailoring to private clients. He supervises an annual tailoring project at The Royal College of Art, and since 2002 has taught unique specialist short courses at London College of Fashion on tailoring and vintage couture techniques.