Author(s): Injoo Kim
This comprehensive men's patternmaking text covers many different garment types and design elements, including patternmaking techniques for both woven and knit fabrics. The step-by-step format with accompanying detailed illustrations is appropriate for beginning to advanced students, as well as the industry professionals looking to sharpen their patternmaking skill. Photographs provide examples of completed garments on the dress form and clear illustrations are highlighted with color to show precisely what to do at each step of the patternmaking process. Noting the subtle difference between patternmaking for men versus women, Kim and Kim provide readers with a complete understanding of the male anatomy, how to take measurements and fitting techniques. Patternmaking for Menswear has a unique modular organization, moving from basic sloper development to detailing slim-fit versus classic-fit garments with design details grouped together to allow readers to combine them to create unlimited design variations. With many fashion-forward and on-trend patterns, this book is an indispensible resource for creating modern and professional-looking menswear designs.
Patternmaking for Contemporary Menswear is the most current, comprehensive and user-friendly book for men's patternmaking--an essential resource for students, educators, and industry professionals.
Injoo Kim is an Associate Professor in the Fashion Design program at the University of Cincinnati. She holds a Masters in Design from the same university. Prior to academia, she worked in the fashion industry for ten years. Professor Kim's research and scholarly work has resulted in multiple publications; she has authored articles on the subjects of apparel design, flat pattern, and machine knitting and three books including Apparel Making in Fashion Design (Fairchild Books, 2002). Myoung Kim is a lecturer in the Department of Clothing and Textiles at Hanyang University, as well as a visiting scholar at the University of Cincinnati. She holds a PhD in Clothing and Textiles from Hanyang University. Prior to academia, she worked as pattern maker and technical designer in the fashion industry for fourteen years. Dr. Kim's research and scholarly work focuses on the proper fit for menswear and menswear pattern making.
Preface SECTION I : PRINCIPLES Chapter 1. Introduction to Patternmaking 1. Men's somatotypes 2. Measurements methods 3. Body measurements for men Chapter 2. Basic Sloper for Wovens: Slim-fit style vs Classic-fit 1. Flat Pattern and sloper 2. Slim-fit upper sloper 3. Fitted-fit with darts 4. Slim-fit pants sloper 5. Classic-fit upper 6. Sloper fitting 7. Seam allowances Chapter 3. Necklines 1. Round neckline 2. Square neckline 3. V- neckline 4. Boat neckline 5. Cowl neckline- without tuck 6. High neckline 7. Inset band neckline Inset band neckline for woven (Round neck) Inset band neckline for jersey (Round neck) Inset band neckline for jersey (V- neck) Chapter 4. Collars 1. Flat collar group Flat collar Sailor collar 2. Shirt collar group One-piece shirt collar inclusive band Two-piece shirt collar with band Sport collar Convertible collar 3. Standing collar group Standing collar without extension Standing collar with extension Wing collar 4. Lapel collar group Shawl collar Notched collar Peaked collar 5. Hood collar group Two-piece hood Three-piece hood Chapter 5. Sleeves and Cuffs 1. No-pleat sleeve with placket 2. One-pleat sleeve with placket 3. Two-pleats sleeve with placket 4. Bishop sleeve 5. Two-piece sleeve for formal wear 6. Two-piece sleeve for casual wear 7. Raglan sleeve 8. Dolman sleeve 9. Short sleeve 10. Cuffs Shirt cuff Adjustable shirt cuff Wing (Long point) cuff French cuff Turned-back cuff Chapter 6. Plackets and Pockets 1. Plackets Pointed placket Classic tailored placket Attached placket Vent placket Bottom placket 2. Pockets Front hip pockets Inseam pockets Welt pockets Patch pocket Box pocket Chapter 7. Details 1. Buttons and Extension 2. Facings Stitching-on facings Folding-back facings 3. Pleats Box pleats and Inverted pleats Side pleats 4. Tucks Pleated tuck Pin-tuck 5. Style lines Darts Yokes Side Panels Princess lines Flange 6. Waistbands Classic Straight Curved Elastic Band with a Draw String Self Casing with a Draw String SECTION II: DESIGN VARIATIONS FOR WOVEN Chapter 8. Shirts 1. Basic shirt with no-pleat sleeves 2. Convertible (open) collar shirt 3. Yoke shirt with one-pleat sleeves 4. Vertical yoke shirt with two-piece sleeves 5. Princess line shirt with two-piece sleeves 6. Hidden-button shirt with short sleeves 7. Pin-tuck shirt with short sleeves 8. Dolman sleeve shirt Chapter 9. Pants 1. No-pleat pants 2. Single-pleat pants 3. Straight jean pants 4. Double-pleat pants 5. Skinny yoke pants 6. Baggy pants Chapter 10. Jumpers Jumper foundation 1. Stadium jumper 2. Boxy jumper 3. Raglan sleeve jumper 4. Standing collar jumper Chapter 11. Jackets Four-panel jacket foundation Six-panel jacket sloper Jacket lining patterns Two Piece Sleeve 1. Basic jacket for suits with one button 2. Double-breasted jacket with picked collar 3. Yoke jacket with three buttons 4. Basic jacket for suits with two buttons 5. Standing collar jacket with four buttons Chapter 12. Coats Coat foundation 1. Traditional six-panel 2. Safari coat 3. Standing collar coat 4. Double breasted boxy coat Chapter 13. Vest 1. V-neck vest 2. Front shawl collar vest SECTION III: DESIGN VARIATIONS FOR JERSEY Chapter 14. Jersey Sloper & Jersey Design Variations I. Jersey upper sloper II. Slim-fit sloper vs classic-fit sloper Slim-fit upper & sleeve sloper Classic-fit upper & sleeve sloper III. Design Variations 1. Round neck T-shirt 2. Pointed placket shirt with short sleeve 3. V- neck T-shirt 4. Raglan sleeve T-shirt 5. Hooded T-shirt Chapter 15. Jersey Pants 1. Slim training pants 2. Classical stripe pants 3. Yoke pants with rounded belt 4. Short pants with pin-tucks APPENDIX 1. Measurement Chart 2. Decimal Conversion Chart 3. Half Scale Slopers 5. Technical Spec Sheet