Author(s): Karen van Godtsenhoven
Fashion Game Changers traces radical innovations in Western fashion design from the beginning of the 20th century to the present. Challenging the traditional silhouettes of their day, fashion designers such as Madeleine Vionnet and Cristobal Balenciaga began to liberate the female body from the close-fitting hourglass forms which dominated European and American fashion, instead enveloping bodies in more autonomous garments which often took inspiration from beyond the West. As the century progressed, new generations of avant-garde designers from Rei Kawakubo to Martin Margiela further developed the ideas instigated by their predecessors to defy established notions of femininity in dress, creating space between body and garment. This way, a new relationship between body and dress emerged for the 21st century. With over 200 images and commentaries from an international range of leading fashion curators and historians, this beautifully illustrated book showcases some of the most revolutionary silhouettes and innovative designs of over 100 years of fashion.
This highly illustrated volume provides a history of game-changing fashion, spanning the work of designers who reinvented the silhouette from Poiret to Yamamoto.
Karen Van Godtsenhoven is Exhibitions Curator at MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp, Belgium. Miren Arzalluz is a fashion historian, freelance fashion curator and former head of collections at the Cristobal Balenciaga Foundation. Kaat Debo is Director of MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp, Belgium.
1. Fashion Game Changers: Reinventing the 20th Century Silhouette - An Introduction Kaat Debo 2. Iconoclastic Visions of the Silhouette: Cristobal Balenciaga Miren Arzalluz 3. Self-Taught and Experimental: A New Approach to the Body Karen Van Godtsenhoven The Inside View - Karin Dillen on Wearing Maison Martin Margiela Hettie Judah 4. Kindred Spirits: The Radical Poetry of Japanese and Belgian Designers Anabela Becho The Inside View - Liliane Lijn on Wearing Issey Miyake Hettie Judah 5. The Discovery of Abstraction in Twentieth-Century Fashion Akiko Fukai 6. Shadows of the Body Olivier Saillard 7. Cultural Liberation Springing from Physical Liberation: Reception Study of the 1980s Avant-Garde Hettie Judah The Inside View - Isolde Pringiers on Wearing Commes des Garcons Hettie Judah 8. More Game Changers: Louise Boulanger, Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin, Paco Rabanne, Georgina Godley Miren Arzalluz, Karen Van Godtsenhoven and Alexandre Samson Endnotes Bibliography Notes on Contributors Photo Credits Index Acknowledgements